[Pigging by Wilfrid: November 12, 2018]
Yes, I've been to Hisop before -- a scarily long time ago. I enjoyed it, but was probably as much focused on my young daughter's enjoyment as my own.
Choosing to return, I was expecting a good meal. It turned out to be one of the most memorable meals I've eaten. And I have eaten a few.
Hisop is in the Eixample, like many of the city's cutting edge restaurants. There's one, rectangular dining room, opening right off the street. It's sleek; the servers wear severe uniforms. At first they acted like angry robots, whizzing around the room, but the pace soon calmed. I settled in with my back to the street and a view of the whole room.
The obvious way to approach Hisop is via the 65 euro tasting menu; and that's what most tables are doing. Given approximate parity with the dollar, that's a great value (even more so, adding 30 euros for paired wines). But for the same reason, ordering from the carte was also going to be a bargain, and that's what I did.
An amuse with uni, and a square of pork belly topped with a pristine mushroom as overture.
The first dish was extraordinary. I was presented (presentations were a big deal) with a tray of pig trotter meat, boneless and baked. This was whisked away, tossed with rice, and topped with an esperdenya (sea cucumber). Pork and rice? Much more: the strong, distinctive flavor of the fat from the feet coated each grain of rice. Nuggets of tender meat nestled in there; and a bite of the sea cucumber cut the richness with earthy acidity (was it gently pickled?).
Heads turned for the next round. Servers came from the kitchen bearing a huge, black, angry (albeit dead) monkfish on a tray. These are ugly critters. Its mouth was open, its sharp teeth showing. I'd ordered the head with caviar. It returned as innocently delicate white flakes of fish, garnished with fish eggs, sitting in a buttery sauce.
Then what the menu calls pichón, but was surely squab. Perhaps the best I've ever eaten. A crisp, spiced skin; rare but velvety meat. The frank accompaniments, its pâté, and a dish of rich jus.
Cheeses to follow, excellent of course (with membrillo).
With a glass of cava, and a half bottle of rich Vizcarra from Ribera del Duero, a stunning 123 euros including tax. That's barely more in dollars. Yes, I'd doubled the tasting menu price, but with plenty to drink, and coming out about the same as a mediocre neighborhood restaurant meal on an unlucky night in Manhattan.
If Hisop ever dropped off your Barcelona list, restore it.
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