[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: February 6, 2017]
The years go by faster and faster, and looking through my diary from ten years ago I find things that seemed to have happened only yesterday. Ten years ago I saw Claire Danes' solo dance performance as Christina Olson at PS 122. Ten years ago I was making chili dogs for Super Bowl XLI. Ten years ago I heard a memorable lecture by Robert Pinsky on Frost and Williams.
And ten years ago a bunch of us walked into Ssäm Bar and ordered the entire menu.
You see, around October 2006, Momofuku Ssäm Bar had opened as a casual place for Korean burritos, pork buns and rice bowls. But of course, it was David Chang doing restaurant by stealth, and by early 2017 there were so many great things on the menu that you could get attention by ordering all of them.
My diary is sadly short on details, as it is on an omakase at 15 East, but it's good on the informal dinners of the week. Crispy cod with potato and pasta with a rabbit ragú at Michael Psilakis' Kefi on the UWS. Those wonderful chicken livers with mini-pooris at Banjara, followed by chicken with roast coconut. Imitation TK raw fish cones, and shrimp with ginger and orange at Satsko,
And what a good meal at Klee, Daniel Angerer's very useful and too short-lived Chelsea brasserie:
Garlic potato chips
Pork tonnato
Wiener schnitzel, parsley potatoes
Hoja Santa, American "Camembert", Appenzeller
A 2005 Santenay by J.-M. Morey helped with that.
Appropriately, I saw a Paul Klee show at MoMA that week. Just as I did at the Met Breuer last month. The wheels turn, but I don't know if we get anywhere.
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