Le Cirque And Johnny's Reef: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine: June 13, 2016]

I've certainly kept all ends of the New York dining scene covered over the years.  June 2006 saw me flitting between one of the city's grand old restaurant icons to a gargantuan Bronx fish shack, with Chinatown and vegetarian eating on the side.

Oh, and it seems I had Apollinaire's poems in one pocket, Carl Van Vechten's last, gloriously dissipated, novel Parties in the other.

Le Cirque, at its swish new Bloomberg location, was the week's starting point; Pierre Schaedelin in the kitchen:

Smoked salmon, salmon mousse

Peas and morel stew

Rack of Colorado lamb, braised shoulder, sweetbreads

Figs

The next day dawned drizzly, but the plan was by subway and bus to City Island, that peaceful rereat connected to the Bronx by a narrow road.  The objective was lunch at Johnny's Reef (old review and pictures here),  a rambling barn of a place serving raw and fried seafood, soups and salads and pastas, from different counters surrounding the big indoor eating space--there's a huge terrace overlooking the water too.  Softshell crabs, of course, lobster tails, shrimp, clams and ears of corn. Bud to drink.  And ice cream at tiny Lickety Spit on the way back to the bus.

That evening, restrained snacking at Bar Veloce and adjacent, co-owned Bar Carrera on Second Avenue: the terrific panino with Speck, taleggio and grappa-soaked apple slices at the former; blood sausage and smoked salmon bocadillos at the latter.

And to finish the binge, a double lunch. First, New England rolls and a veggie burger at the all-vegetarian Gobo.  Then, after drinks at Loreley, a schlep down to Cantoon Garden in Chinatown for some poor critter's crispy intestines, and various chicken and shrimp dishes.  Talk about parties.

Protos Gran Reserva, 1996