Miller Union: Sustainable Southern

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  May 16, 2016]

On a recent short trip to Atlanta, I spent most of my time downtown on business, and eating highly variable junk food at various sports bars.  But I did manage to get to one recommended restaurant.

Miller Union is one of a small number (by my count) of Atlanta restaurants offering Southern cuisine with a conscious emphasis on fresh, local, sustainable ingredients. And I couldn't face a real down-home feast of grits, sausage gravy, hot chicken and buttermilk biscuits on top of all the cheese fries.

Miller Union is in a quiet neighborhood by the rail tracks (does it have a name? My cab driver couldn't tell me) about two miles north of downtown.  Hard by the freight rail tracks, it has the feel of a recently gentrified area: quiet houses, wine bars, coffee shops, a gallery or two. The restaurant is in a faceless modern brick building: inside, it's cozy, divided into several dining rooms. It reminded me very strongly of Colt & Gray in Denver, in looks, scale and ambition.

I managed to get a wine list and order drinks ahead of placing my food order; always wise if you're traveling solo. When a half bottle of champagne is twice the price of a flute, it's hard to resist.

The menu starts off with a bunch of starters, and I'm glad I ordered two because grit fritters with country ham and Thomasville tomme turned out to be a sort of snacky share plate.  Fritters?  Little hot balls very reminiscent of rice balls. 

The cheese flavor was mild, the country ham distinctive.  What these really called out for--so loud, I was surprised the call wasn't answered--was some kind of dipping sauce.  Nice bites, but you don't really need more than one or two.

Local shrimp with favas, on the other hand, was a classically composed appetizer which I wouldn't have wanted to share. Huge kudos for actually peeling the fava beans. I've eaten them in expensive restaurants which didn't bother. Other garnishes: radish, cilantro, and green garlic.

 

Tying it all together, a rich, buttery sauce--I'd say a flourless velouté if that made any sense.  The main event, the shrimp, were sweet and meaty.  Very good.

My disappointment with the main course was, perhaps, disproportionate.  It's just a pity to be in a differenr city for a few days, have time for only one thoughtfully chosen dinner, and then get an entrée where the execution--the prep, to be specific--had clearly gone wrong.

Rabbit appears on the starter menu in a smoked mousse.  This was the "confit rabbit leg," although there was more than a leg on the plate. Herbed gnocchi were more like spaetzle, but very good.  There were perhaps a few too many English peas, but I like them: I assume the tiny specks of "rabbit bacon" mixed in with the peas were a by-product of the parts smoked for the mousse.

The leg itself was severely crisped and therefore a little dry.  The rest of the rabbit was juicy enough, but the kitchen had (correctly) brined the meat before cooking, then (incorrectly) failed to rinse it properly.  (I don't mean to be a grouch: I've made duck and rabbit confit many times, I've brined meats, I've made this mistake myself).  All the meat on the plate was fiercely salty.  Like salting cod, brining is not intended to increase salt levels at point of delivery. It has other purposes.

It was salty to the point I probably would have sent it back in New York, but you know, who wants to ask them to cook another main, and it was a long way from home.

I was offered a verbal selection of, I think, three cheeses to choose from: $6 a piece, which is better than New York prices. I couldn't resist a goat cheese called Billy the Kid. 

Sharp and creamy, a good choice.  I didn't mishear the name, because I see it on other Atlanta menus, but I can't find any information about it.  and an expert pointed me to the Capra Gia Cheese Co as the maker. 

The rabbit carrying a full big-city price ($36; the most expensive main after the $39 strip steak), my check was going to be in three figures.  But the food cost would be about $55 for a regular three courses: drinking is up to you.

Here's the website.