[Pigging by Wilfrid: February 8, 2016]
This dinner happened a few weeks ago. I never got around to posting about it, because I was considering making it the center-piece of a more general reflection on last year's New York dining scene.
I never wrote that, and I'm not sure why. It may be I'm a little jaded; not so much by restaurants--there have been some very good openings in the last twelve months--but by the un-historical, uncritical, open-mouthed coverage dining out generally receives from the media.
But it's not the best place for a scene, to see and be seen, it's not cool, it's not downtown, and it's off the buzzy foodie radar. It's kind of a weird situation, because everyone noticed Gabriel Kreuther--if anything a more formal, more fussy midtown opening. I can only think that chef Kreuther's spell at The Modern (because everyone loves Danny Meyer) counted for more than Shea Gallante's Michelin-starred reign at Cru, or Chevalier's The Modern-sourced front-of-house staff.
Gallante trained at Felidia and Bouley. He opened Cru aged 31. At 33 he pulled in his first Michelin star. There followed a number of years at Giano, where I know he was frustrated by the limitations of cooking a good but mainstream Italian menu.
At Chevalier he clearly has the investment he was looking for. A luxurious setting, impeccable service, fine ingredients, and--apparent in the execution--a good kitchen brigade. But for the New York media, it seems to be the wrong place at the wrong time.
At this meal, grilled octopus tentacle--crisp outside, tender within--came with pine nuts, puntarelle, and a sweetly comforting parnsip confit. Another highlight was aged duck breast with mejdool dates.
If you care about food, you should know that Chevalier now has an à la carte menu, which makes it more approachable and affordable. Indeed, wine aside, you can now dine at Chevalier for about the same as you'd pay at Rebelle or Racines, for example: estimable places, but not nearly as good.
Chevalier. Best new restaurant experience in New York last year, and this year so far. Take it or leave it.
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