[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: October 19, 2015]
Off to Toronto because I now had to renew by visa annually while waiting for the interminable permanent residency process to work itself out. I put up at the Hilton downtown, and enjoyed two of the best restaurant meals I'd ever eaten in the city.
It's a pity New York never saw Susur Lee at his best.
For whatever reason, the unsuccessful Shang which he opened in the Thompson LES Hotel didn't begin to match his Toronto flagship in ambition, let alone execution. It seemed to be a corner-cutting exercise, leaving New York diners wondering what the fuss was about.
Here's what it was about--"Dinner Through the Looking Glass," a lengthy eGullet write-up of my experience. Highlights of the curious reverse dining experience included Confit of foie gras (prepared in house, I'm sure) and a slice of Muscovy duck breast served over a black plum stuffed with nuts, and wrapped in a garlic potato twirl, and lobster tail garnished with sea snails over a mussel and mustard sauce. This was a highly wrought dining experience.
The next evening, after a day battling the US consulate, an equally spectacular dinner at Perigee. Hidden away in the dark Distillery District, this was Pat Riley's extraordinary tasting menu laboratory, based around an extensive dining counter--and this was before everyone in New York got in on the idea. Riley's team would spend the day experimenting, and in the evening send out different dishes to every diner in the place.
I couldn't keep up with the bewildering variety of invention over my nine course meal. I just knew I'd be back.
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