A Tabelog Tasting: Osteria Del Principe

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  July 6, 2015]

Be honest, was this place on your radar?  It's in that rather anonymous downtown-facing façade of the Credit Suisse building at 1 Madison Avenue which also houses Schnipper's Quality Kitchen.

That means it's about two minutes walk from Eataly, and what's more it's owned by San Daniele, the prosciutto people. But has it had the love it deserves?

Arguably not, was my conclusion after expanding my waist-line at an event designed by Tabelog for local food writers last week. This was a complimentary tasting, of course--but after all, this kind of product is going to be consistent for casual diners or alleged VIPs.

As for the space, a long dining bar on the right when you enter; some tables facing it; more in the room at the back which had been set up for our grazing. Sleek, modern, European: just not much visibility from the street.

That's the spread we worked through. Most of the cold cuts were laid out on a buffet table, and repeatedly replenished. The octopus (which I missed), the porchetta sandwich, and the pasta were passed out fresh as they were made.

20 month aged San Daniele ham was available in cones.  The porchetta sandwich came on soft, house-made piadina flatbread. The raspadura was shaved fresh from a whole Bella Lodi cheese and served in brown paper bags for snacking.

 

Of the wines, the standout was the Kerner Castelfeder, an Alpine white, halfway to a Riesling, but interestingly tropical. The pasta was warming, cheesy, and had a bundle of San Daniele crowning it.  I didn't eat much ham the next day.

Okay, I could have eaten the truffled ham again.  That was some good meat. It's available on the carte at $7 a portion. The meats here range from $6 (great Mortadella) to $10 and $11 for the 16 and 20 month hams. Pastas $15 to $18, but the full menu is at the website.

Worth considering.