[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: October 27, 2014]
I consoled myself for the Yankees' inexplicable generosity in conceding four consecutive games to the hapless Red Sox by returning to Per Se for the second time, and eating another in a veritable series of dinners at WD-50.
We looked in on Dévi again too. At this time, Dévi was settling into its stride as the most interesting, and in some ways the best, of New York City's Indian restaurants.
A glance at the dishes shows how far Dévi's menu had drifted from standard issue tandoori/vindaloo selections. Take a look:
Bhel puri with mung beans
Veal and liver toasts
Lamb shank, onion and parmesan kulcha
Three rices
Saffron kulfi
I don't think I'd eat mung beans and bhel puri every day, but it was certainly unusual; and the use of parmesan in the bread was a hint of the intriguing Indian-American notes which would later creep into the kitchen's vernacular (yes, fried chicken).
Per Se was a grand affair of course, but again I felt just some of the dishes fell too flat for a restaurant of its expense and growing reputation. The smoked salmon cornet and oysters and pearls to start; good again, but hardly unexpected. Then:
Seared Hudson Valley foie gras, Black Mission fig
Yellowfin tuna, cipollini onion
Butter-poached lobster, black truffles
Crépinette of quail
Wagyu beef, marrow croutons
And then one of the composed cheese plates, and an unmemorable chocolate dessert. Sadly, the plates which stick in my mind are the failure. The tuna--a simple piece of seared tuna--was served alongside a single, smallish onion. It may have been an onion cooked in the most amazing and painstakingly prepared stock imaginable. But it was fish and boiled onion.
The quail seemed to be high quality, and had been brilliantly butchered into a boneless sphere. It was unseasoned and boring. Pink Billecart-Saumon, Grüner Veltliner, a Pomerol, and a drop of Banyuls helped push the check up.
WD-50 provided a sparky contrasts. Chef Wylie had created his ingenious fried mayonnaise, which he was serving with beef tongue. There was roast chicken with egg yolk, a mole sauce, and carrot confit. Goat cheese panna cotta to finish, all with a 2002 Traminer.
I'm going to miss that place.
Comments