[Pink Pig Time Machine: August 11, 2014]
That was a week I could happily re-live. Which was the highlight? My first visit to Per Se, opened in February that year, or my first chance to see Tim and Neil Finn live in concert?
Well, I'm a music lover. Not that Per Se wasn't memorable too.
The Finns played Central Park Summerstage on a warm evening at the end of July. Neil Finn, of course, is the pop star, thanks to Crowded House, but he's never better than with his older, sterner brother looking over his shoulder. "Weather With You," "Leaky Boat," "Only Natural," "Four Seasons in One Day, "I See Red," "How Will You Go?" Yes, the Split Enz hits, the Crowded House hits, the solo numbers. Perfect.
And followed by a casual supper at Flea Market: terrine de lapin, onglet aux échalottes.
Another good dinner at WD-50 midweek, with Wylie showing off one of his finest inventions, fried mayonnaise--perfect little crispy cubes accompanying beef tongue. Venison tartare with edamame ice cream too, and some wild king salmon with a Chinese sausage panna cotta.
But the big event was Saturday; dinner with three practiced eaters at Per Se in the Time Warner building. At 5.30, I was messing around with the silly fake door. Seated, I discovered I knew our server from a previous venue, and I settled into a champagne cocktail. Okay, from my journal...
Gougères
Smoked salmon cones
Chilled carrot soup
Oysters and pearls
Confit of foie gras with fruits
Whole foie gras in Sauternes
Salt service: France, Hawaii, Bali
Coddled egg with truffles
Lobster with summer truffle foam
Shaved jicama with lime jelly and zest
Whole poached turbot in butter and herbs, leeks, black trumpet mushrooms
Braised pork shoulder, collard greens
Roast lamb
Cheese with condiments
Thyme sorbet
Chocolate ganache
Wine pairings with the meal, of which the most memorable was a white Hermitage with the turbot. I guess I've been mentally reviewing this meal ever since, and still don't quite know what to make of it. Yes, of course it was very good indeed. The whole foie gras and the whole turbot were each presented at the table before being plated. I think dessert service was cut short because one of the diners was perceptibly wilting at that point.
But the food? Simplicity won with the carrot soup, which was the most carrot-like thing I have ever tasted. But it disappointed with the shaved jicama (dull), and the rather routine confit of foie. The cheese course was a let-down (a bit of Comte with rhubarb, I think). There was no single dish I went away with a deep craving to eat again (unlike, for example, Wylie's fried mayonnaise).
I remember the check as if it was yesterday. No itemization; just $500 per head, please. And service wasn't included back then.
Next day, I bought some pince-nez in the East Village. But that's another story.
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