First Madrid Trip: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid:  June 16, 2014]

You see, I'd lost my heart to Barcelona. I guess I first visited the Catalunyan capital around 1989 or 1990, and for ten years I just kept going back. Barcelona is just inexhaustible. It wasn't until 2004 that I knew I had to see some other parts of the country.

So Madrid, with two volumes of Henry Fielding's Tom Jones in my pockets. And in my bag?

Well, clothes of course, and in years of flying this was the first and only time my checked bag was misdirected. So after a frustrating hour at the airport, there I was in a city center men's store, picking up essentials. A couple of t-shirts, easy; but all the pants needed adjusting--so I was in my traveling pants until the bag showed up a day or so later.

But this didn't stop me trawling the tapas bars, initially in the area near my hotel, in the Puerta del Sol district.

First evening:

La Solera: empanada de bonito, tostas con bonito en escabeche; ensalada Rusa.

El Buscon: tosta con chorizo; morcilla d'Ibérico.

Bodegas y Taberna Ricla: chorizo, boquerones, Cabrales en sidra.

La Venencia: mojama.

Sherries from the barrel at La Venencia, that splendid old anarchist bar (no tipping!), then more drinks at Los Gabrieles before bed-time.

A lot of sleep to catch up on next day, and a long walk in the old Lavapiés neighborhood. The back to work, the evening beginning at what quickly became one of my favorite spots--the terrace bar at El Ventorillo--tables set among the trees, with a view across the valley. A tall red vermut over ice, please. Bacalo en aceite and pata negra (the great acorn-fed ham) at the Ricla wine bar, with a Gran Feudo Reserva, then dinner at a simple, neighborhood restaurant, Chuzo: judías verdes (the flat, wide, green beans, tossed with ham); rabo de vaca with fried potatoes; flan.

At La Venencia, after dinner amontillado, then back to Los Gabrieles again. Next day, all aboard the train to Granada.