[Pigging by Wilfrid: May 5, 2014]
The 2014 Rioja Grand Tasting for trade and media, at Studio 450--a pleasant event loft overlooking Hudson Yards, served by the city's slowest elevator--was an education in the changing physiognomy of a thousand year-old wine.
Although traditional Rioja exists, there's not much doubt in my mind that most of the production--destined for overseas sales, at least--reflects a modernisation of wine-making techniques and style.
We're at the point where Gran Reservas coming to market reflect a warmer, fruit-forward, accessible style. What we'll learn over the next ten or twenty years, if we're spared, is whether these types of wines will still show the valued characteristics of older vintage Riojas.
Over sixty importers and merchants represented at the show, most of them showcasing several wines, so plenty to try. One distinctive highlight for me was the 2005 Gran Reserva from Lan, a relatively new maker. Behind the fruit, I found a flinty, earthy, almost smoky spine. This was one I returned to: several times.
Luis Cañas is a familiar brand, and I was struck by the contrasting labels on the regular, tempranillo-heavy Reserva, and the Selección de la Familia Reserva (more Graciano, old vines). Modern and traditional side by side. Although if you really want to see an traditional Rioja makeradjusting to the twenty-first century, take a look at the powerhouse Marqués de Cáceres: new labels, a new faith in fruit, and new brands like the elite, old vines Gaudium 2008 (priced above the Gran Reserva).
Another trend to note: a drift away from strict adherence to the Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva rankings.
If your taste is for funky, oily, resinated Riojas blancas, you're out of luck. The Monopole from Cune, in its slim, elegant bottle, set the standard for new Rioja whites: light, crisp, floral--good aperitif wines. There were few on show here (and about as many rosadas).
Plenty of familiar houses, of course, like Faustino, Beronia, Montecillo, and Rioja Alta (no LdH, though), Cune's always amazing Contino Reserva (they were pouring the 2007, and it has years ahead of it). Among the newcomers--to me, anyway--Vaza, owned by Freixenet (the Crianza retails for $15), and Paternina's Clisos ($12). Bright young wines, for a changing world.
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