at the sign of The Pink Pig

Dinner Extremes: Mont Blanc And Wallflower

[Pigging by Wilfrid: April 29, 2014]

As I've said before, sometimes you just have to write about what you happened to eat. It certainly wasn't thoughtful planning which saw me grabbing a quick bite in the West Village last week, or casting about for a post-concert supper in midtown.

But the two meals I ate gave me a chance to reflect on opposite extremes of Manhattand dining--embodied in two restaurants which strive mightily to promote their European appeal.

The Cheese: Duke Of Sussex

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  April 29, 2014]

I can't tell you much about this one, except I found it at Bedford Cheese.  It's English, and it looked like another cheddar, pretty much, so I gave it a try. It's cow's milk, and vegetarian.

The paste is cheddarish--the rind, less so.  It seems to have some pin pricks in it.  Kind of chalky. The texture wasn't as appealing as it looked: vaguely crumbly.  Just not much of anything going on.

Nothing to pass up a Keen's, Montgomery, or Isle of Mull cheddar for.  And yet, and yet...it seems to want to be something other than a cheddar.  Oh well.

Finishing April At Tocqueville: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine: April 29, 2014]

April 2004, and I bet the weather was better than it is today. After splendid meals at Ducasse and Craft, the month was running down with flank steak and vegetable hash; with the movie version of Alexander Trocchi's Young Adam; with Christopher Ricks advancing improbably theses about anagrams in poetry at the Mercantile Library.

But shad roe was available. And so I bought some, and casseroled it with cream, bacon, and fresh cilantro.

Gato: Flay Nails It

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  April 23, 2014]

Few things cause more hand-wringing among serious foodies, it seems, than the possibility of one of the brasher, most ubiquitous Food Network "stars" opening a good restaurant. But it really shouldn't come as a big surprise that Bobby Flay has done just that. He does, after all, have a history.

And startlingly--and indeed, no matter how boyish, he's pushing the big 5-0--it's a history a lot of regular becs-fins don't fully know. Time for a quick review.

Ducasse And Monster Lobster At Craft: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine:  April 21, 2014]

Oh what fun we had, ten years ago: a crew of us showing up at Craft to eat the largest lobster tail I've ever seen. And the same week, a long and luxurious dinner at Alain Ducasse. Probably the best I ate there.

Greedy days, but I found time too to attend the New York Society Library's 250th anniversary party, and a major show at Neue Galerie.

Snacks: Mitchel London, Fritzl's

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  April 14, 2014]

Been a busy week, but I did grab a couple of interesting bites. Remember Mitchel London? Once chef to Ed Koch, he's had his name on a number of catering and café operations around town.

His tiny shop on the short block of East 65th Street between Madison and Park Avenue is stacked with sweet and savory pastries.

The Cheese: Tomme Rabelais

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  April 14, 2014]

Here's one to make you sit up and pay attention. A full-bodied tomme from maître fromager affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier. I found it at Bedford Cheese, where they describe it as "fudgy."

That's exactly right. The paste has a tongue-coating fudgy texture--almost reminiscent of a Gjetost (but the flavor profile is quite different). Creamy, bordering on sweet, with a dramatic bitter accent from the thick, natural crust, this is an adventurous cheese.

You might find it over the top, and crave something salty or more savory to follow it; but it's worth experiencing. And well- named:

From the gut comes the strut, and where hunger reigns, strength abstains.

It looks gorgeous too.

The Fall, Bouley: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid:  April 14, 2014]

A life of extremes. First, on a cold night, to the Knitting Factory to see a band which gave me some scars back in the old days (that's another story). Then to the one of the city's best restaurants. And finishing the week in an izakaya.

I like variety.

Angus Club: Beefy Does It

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  April 7, 2014]

Who needs yet another steakhouse in midtown East? That's a fair question to ask when confronted by a new contender, joining the ranks of Sparks, Smith & Wollensky, the Palms, and even Le Relais de Venise.

But when is a steakhouse not a steakhouse? When is it a plush, sleek restaurant which happens to have steak on the menu?

Café Boulud: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid:  April 7, 2014]

Back in spring 2004, Andrew Carmellini was still a year away from leaving the Boulud empire and embarking on the path which would lead to being chef/partner at four (soon to be five) buzzy Manhattan restaurants.

In 2004, he was still presiding over some of the best French and international cuisine in the city.