[Pink Pig Time Machine: January 27, 2014]
Gramercy Tavern has been Michael Anthony's restaurant for about seven years now, but going back to 2003, this was probably the last really good meal I ate there in the days when Tom Colicchio was presiding over the kitchen.
Sadly, a mediocre meal or two was to follow: but this was good.
I started out with Savoy cabbage parceling Scottish partridge and foie gras, served in a black truffle broth. Memories of the pot-au-feu at Lutèce, with its foie-cabbage parcel.
Then the filet de boeuf, topped with slices of bone marrow. My server actually brought me extra bone marrow on the side. A potato risotto with that. Also worth remembering that Gramercy Tavern was one of the first restaurants in the city to offer a serious cheese plate (there was a time when cheese was not to be found, even at New York's grand French restaurants). This time, English Cheddar and Lancashire, Spanish Pau and Valdeón, and Italian Robiola. A lovely premier cru Aloxe-Corton, 1997, with the beef and cheese.
At home, I made lapin à la Normande--yes, rabbit in cream. It's also clear from my diary that I showed up at WD-50 again for a tasting menu, but no further detauls are given.
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