[Pigging by Wilfrid: December 16, 2013]
Have we over-burgered recently? After wading through half Time Out's list of the city's best new burgers, I kind of felt that way, especially as they ranged from good to...really hard work.
But no reason I shouldn't hail a promising specimen you might otherwise overlook.
Fritzl's Lunch Box has been one of my favorite neighborhood discoveries this year. Not a life-changing restaurant you should journey miles to enjoy, but a sweet, local operation, making precise food at precise prices for its crowd. And it surpassed itself with its blood sausage beignets.
Plenty of people go just for the burger (overlooking the lamb ribs, the pork chop, the seasonal tempura-fried vegetables).
The patties are wilfully fatty, containing a proportion of beef cheek to chuck, and loosely ground. As you can see, they'll come medium rare if that's what you ask for. Cheddar melting on top, aioli underneath, and some house-made pickle relish.
Only complaint: the soft, sesame buns will start to break down while you're eating. Otherwise, a burger to be proud of: $10 with cheese ($9 without), and you can add skin-on skinny fries for four bucks.
Comments