A Celebration: Ruinart And Michy Bernstein

[Free stuff by Wilfrid: October 29, 2013]

Ruinart has to be one of my favorite brands.  I was drinking "R" de Ruinart long before it was officially launched in the States (Flute in midtown always seemed to have a few bottles).  I love the product.  I always have fun at the events.

I didn't think twice when I was invited to celebrate the (late) end of this year's harvest at a lunch cooked by Michelle Bernstein, in the presence of Ruinart's affable chef de caves, Frédéric Panaiotis.

Chef Bernstein directs Michy's in Miami, of course, and Miami's the only place I've eaten her food. It was good to have her briefly captive in NYC (in part for the Food & Wine festival, of course).

The venue was a luxurious private event space in Greenwich Village. The food matched a cool, sunny New York fall day. The wines were chosen to provide context for two fine vintages.

And thanks to traffic I missed the passed hors d'oeuvres--but brand manager Lacey saved me some Blancs de Blancs.

The first course presented just a charming picture, especially with the osetra garnish. Smoked salmon from Barney Greengrass; a notably buttery piece of sous vide fresh salmon; sprout leaves; a Hollandaise; croutons. Michy said she was inspired by brunch. I found the 2002 vintage Blanc de Blancs pretty inspiring too.

Then a dish to fill your boots.  Cassoulet, but nothing too rustic about it.  Cassoulet with duck four ways, no less. Confit leg, pale pink roast breast, sausage (in there somewhere), and foie gras. The home-made sausage--just the meat and a few herbs, said the chef--actually stole the show.

An authentic flicker of breadcrumbs on top, but not too many beans.  We didn't need a whole lot of beans.

NV rosé poured from the magnum with the cassoulet; then the special wine of the lunch, the 1998 Dom Ruinart rosé. Would this go with a composed cheese course.

Gosh, yes. Especially with these carefully chosen cheeses.  What's the keynote of Beemster, the aged Gouda? For me, caramel. Piave-Vecchio? "Tropical fruit flavor," says Murray's.  An overtstatement maybe, but yes, fruit behind the initial sharpness.

Behind the fresh sparkle of the Ruinart vintage rosé--yes, caramel, then the characteristic strawberry finish.

Cheese with old pink bubbles.  Works for me.  Oh, that was a good lunch.  Thanks to chef Michy, and of course to Ruinart.