at the sign of The Pink Pig

A Celebration: Ruinart And Michy Bernstein

[Free stuff by Wilfrid: October 29, 2013]

Ruinart has to be one of my favorite brands.  I was drinking "R" de Ruinart long before it was officially launched in the States (Flute in midtown always seemed to have a few bottles).  I love the product.  I always have fun at the events.

I didn't think twice when I was invited to celebrate the (late) end of this year's harvest at a lunch cooked by Michelle Bernstein, in the presence of Ruinart's affable chef de caves, Frédéric Panaiotis.

Quick Bites: The Elm Has NYC's Best "Fish'n'Chips"

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  October 28, 2013]

I raved about The Elm when it opened in the summer.  Most people I know have continued to rave about it. Sure, I can see how the slightly tense services, and the you're-in-a-hotel room, made it look like a two star restaurant to the Times.

But I find it hard to see it--food-wise, at least--as anything other than the best opening in New York for years. Even when it's doing casual!

Quietly At Home: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine: October 28, 2013]

Back from Toronto, a documented immigrant again, I spent this week ten years ago reading the poetry of the Irish dandy Oliver St John Gogarty, watching the World Series (pesky Marlins), and catching up on sleep.

There was also a bite or two here and there.

The Cheese: Torta Peghera

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  October 24, 2013]

A creamy chunk of goodness from Eataly, for a change.  Torta Peghera is made in Val Taleggio, way up in northern Italy from raw cow's milk.

You can see the paste in the middle is just slightly firm; it's developing that nice viscosity around the edges.

Quick Bites: Blood Sausage Beignets At Fritzl's

[Pigging by Wilfrid: October 22, 2013]

You can keep your cronuts, you can sit on your ramen burger. Here's what NYC becs-fins and feeders should be screaming about.  Mouthwatering, fluffy, blood sausage beignets at Fritzl's.

Savory donuts? Yes, but chef Dan Ross-Leutwyler had this version by the alpha and the omega: great idea, great execution.

From Café Boulud To Eating Toronto: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: October 22, 2013]

After looking over some new torques by Richard Serra at the Gagosian's huge Chelsea space, it was time for a return match with Café Boulud. In 2003, Andrew Carmellini was still running the kitchen, and--taking price into account--it was maybe the best upscale French restaurant in town.

Cocktails across the street in Bemelmans first, of course.

Truffle Time! -- Fiera Del Tartufo At The Met

[Pigging by Wilfrid: October 16, 2013]

Last Friday, the ribbon was cut on the 2013 white truffle season.  I mean officially: in Alba, the white truffle capital of the world. And we were on a live TV link from the Met Museum's elegant Terrace Room.

Evening in Alba, lunchtime in New York, truffle time everywhere--if you were lucky.

Jack's Luxury O.B. And Not Much Else: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: October 14, 2013]

This isn't really the place to tell the story of Jack Lamb, the spiky, Harold Lloyd lookalike and East Village restaurateur, his wife Grace, and their portfolio of bijou eateries.

But some of the story is bound to come flooding back when I recall a meal at Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar, this week ten years ago.

Eating At Madison Square Eats

[Pigging by Philippa: October 7, 2013]

It started off with humid and misty weather on our way to Madison Square. There weren't long lines, but it was a good crowd for the weather.

There were about 25 resturant stands in Madison Square Eats, and we ate at six of them. It was hard to obtain a table because many people wanted to sit and eat.

Guest Editor Week

My daughter Philippa has accompanied me on enough of my eating expeditions that it's high time she sang for her supper. So the Madison Square Eats review this week is all her work (including the photographs), and her opinions.  Enjoy.

I'll just add that the expanded roster of vendors this season makes it an appealing anthology of the restaurants New Yorkers are eating at now.  The chance to sample Roberta's, The Cannibal, Delaney's Brisket, Red Hook Lobster, and Momofuku Milk Bar--even heavily edited versions of their cuisine--in one place is surely appealing. As long as the rain holds off.