Briefly Touching Down at Ali's: Ten Years Ago

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: February 4, 2013]

Back from Santo Domingo, I hardly needed to unpack my suitcase.  I was headed down to Australia for work purposes -- the third time, I'd made the trip.

I'd also lined up a stopover in Los Angeles for the return trip.

What better use of a couple of days in New York than rest, library-going, and a blow-out dinner at Ali's Kabab Café.  In case anyone doesn't know, Ali El Sayed is the avuncular genius who turns out some of the tastiest food in the city from what looks like a two foot square space between a counter and a cooking range.

For whatever reason, interesting body parts, mainly from the veal calf, was the theme on this evening.  And just about every part of the animal was consumed.  No, I don't just mean the sweetbreads, which he sautées, or the brains which he serves with a squeeze of lime.  There was tripe too.  There was the foot soup he loves to serve, this time with rice and slices of toast for dipping.

There was also udder.  And there was pizzle.  With escarole.  Yes, that's right.

At which point, a mysterious stranger entered and offered us some pastries.  Some of the people in my party knew him.  "Who is that man?"

Jim Leff.

Since which day I have always associated the founder of Chowhound, through no fault of his own, with Ali El Sayed's grilled pizzle.