[Pigging by Wilfrid: January 24, 2012]
Folks from around the country may well think: Steak 'n' Shake, so what? The franchise is getting on for eighty years old. But hey, it's news, because we just got one in New York.
Okay, so it's a year old now, but I hadn't been until recently. The opening excitement has died down, and there are no long lines at its small outlet, right next door to the Ed Sullivan Theater.
It's bright and colorful, from the decor to the female servers' startlingly brief tunics. My trusty sidekick (okay my daughter) said "It's just like Hooters." Okay...
Although Steak 'n' Shake apparently offers a wide range of novelty burgers and "franks," with exotic toppings, the menu above the register pushes the signature steakburger (or a double cheeseburger) as your obvious choices. We got the signature. $3.99 and it comes with fries.
It's a classic fast-food burger. Soft roll, pickle, tomato, lettuce and onion. Melted anonymous cheese. But it's perfectly pleasant. No stale grease after-taste. And the patty is a decent size.
I didn't get out a pair of scales, but it was a good ratio of beef to bread. No, not cooked to order. Fries were very skinny, but fresh and crispy. Although they call your name when the order is ready, servers are happy to step out and bring it to your table.
Plenty of niceness, then. I am not a milkshake connoisseur, but I am going to have to rate the cookies 'n' cream below the thick, rich shake served at Five Napkin. $2.99.
Cheap, cheerful, satisfactory. And yet another place which makes me wonder why there are endless lines at Shake Shacks.
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