[Pink Pig Time Machine: December 26, 2011]
Two restaurant dinners in the last few days before Christmas, ten years ago. My second or third visit to Blue Hill and - I think - my first dinner at Le Cirque, then in the New York Palace Hotel. I'd tried Le Cirque for lunch: what took me there the Sunday before Christmas was the list of weekly specials.
I preceded it with a foie gras and rabbit terrine, leek garnish, and followed it with cheese. To drink, Veuve Cliquot, a '96 Chapoutier Hermitage with the tripe, Blandy's 10 year old Malmsey with the cheese. Not a bad supper.
After a day of driving rain, and a sensible interval of boeuf aux carrottes, I return to the fray with another bout at Blue Hill.
Still just the Washington Square restaurant ten years ago, and this was the one occasion I took my eye off the ball long enough to be seated in the dismal back room, out beyond the kitchen. The tasting menu was agreeable though. A shot of pea soup, then a Main scallop in a fennel-accented "bouillabaisse"; a delicate crab lasagne with tarragon; then the signature poached duck, all tender meat.
This was very much the kind of subtle - almost too subtle - and meticulous cooked Dan Barber and Michael Anthony became known for. Anyone who liked a bit of crispy skin on their duck, or a sear on their scallop, was going to be disappointed. With the cheese came arrop i talladetes, a sort of Valencian grape must jelly, as well as chestnuts, honey and house pickled onions. The red wines were a Coteaux du Layon and a Bandol.
Finishing the week with a flourish, the remarkable Joey Arias in a pantomime called "Christmas with the Crawfords" - yes, seasonal fun with psycho Joanie. How better to prepare for Santa Claus?
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