[Pigging by Wilfrid: December 21, 2011]
My first reaction when I saw the signs go up on the corner of 14th Street and Second Avenue: "What, more meatballs?" My feeling after my second meal at the Meatball Factory: "Okay, better meatballs."
My initial visit was at the invitation of a publicist, but I went back quite happily on my own dime. Who thought I'd end 2011 - just about - praising a meatball shop.
I didn't much like the place, but then it wasn't aimed at me. I wasn't surprised when I saw their recipes, the quantities of bread and egg which go into the product, along with the Creekstone Farms beef or whatever. It was fancied up versions of what grandma used to make (or at least, everyone's imaginary nonna). My main interest in the Meatball Factory - would it differentiate itself from its downtown predecessor?
The answer: absolutely, yes. In atmosphere, range and style. Fundamentally, the meatballs here are lighter. Now, if you're looking for the meatloaf-like blockbusters of Italian-American legend, you are going to be let down. But heck, there are meatballs on this menu which are gluten free. The weighty bread-and-egg binding is not central to the repertoire here (conceived by Top Chef finalist Dave Martin).
I inquired, and was told the kitchen used a little egg to bind most of the balls together - not the vegan ones, of course. Result: you get to taste the meat, and yes, the Meatball Factory is doing fancy artisanal sourcing too.
Take the "Turducken." No, not neatly formed concentric circles of chicken inside a duck inside a turkey, but a distinctive blend of LaFrieda turkey, Bell & Evans chicken and Hudson Valley Farms braised duck. And it's not a minced mess. The meats are distinct, the nuggets of duck especially succulent.
You can choose a bowl of meatballs from the list of seven for $9 and add one of eight sauces free. I went for a sauce sampler. The truffle sauce with cream and Fontina (which they also throw over their truffled mac'n'cheese is a crowd pleaser. The "Hell's Bells" vodka sauce is not as spicy as the name makes it sound; the barbecue sauce went well with another meatball choice, "Hog wild." Yes, we do silly names here.
Here's a more straightforward meatball, but again it's not just a globe of ground meat. There's ground pork here, for sure, but also pieces of braised pork shoulder. Sort of meatball pernil. Flecked red from chili paste which gives it a very mild burn, a little mascarpone to helpwith the binding. Another winner.
Red sauce does get a workout, of course. There are nonna meatballs - beef, pork and veal - but again, they're not breaded. Aged Asiago is used in the binding; get them with the fire-roasted tomato sauce in the meatball parm sandwich, and you are about as close to old school as you are going to get. Even so, there's a twist: the sandwiches are served in top-loading challah rolls. A little sweet for me.
I didn't get to taste the vegan "meatballs," but the vegan who did was very satisfied. I did work through the vegetable sides. A cauliflower purée looked like...well, something you wouldn't want to eat. But it was very good, the cauliflower smartly puréed with cooked garlic, giving it a savory smoothness without an overwhelming garlic note. Brussel sprouts, sweetened with maple syrup and kicked up with a dash of hot sauce, were exemplary. Mushrooms are dealt straight with just salt and pepper.
It's a large space with a long shiny bar - about sixteen beers on tap - and plenty of seating. I think they're going to get plenty of bottoms in those seats too.
A partly constructed website, with menu, is here.
Note: I visited initially at the invitation of the restaurant and did not pay for my meal. I returned spontaneously on my own dollar, and given the location and prices will likely return often.
I couldn't agree with you more. My initial reaction to The Meatball Factory opening was alright this is going to be a battle: Meatball Factory Vs. the Meatball Shop. After my visit, the meatballs were definitely a little bit better but I think we all end up being winners.
Posted by: Austin Scott Brooks | January 06, 2012 at 09:25 AM