[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: November 7, 2011]
Ah yes, November ten years ago, when champagne corks still popped and white truffle dinners seemed a reasonable investment.
I did have some white truffles showered on my food at San Domenico, anyway - the old San Domenico, of course, on Central Park South.
I had already begun the month in grand fashion at home, with a plump roast capon, potatoes fried in goose fat with parsley and garlic and a bottle of claret.
I hit Flute (the midtown one) before the white truffle indulgence, and I strongly suspect I drank some vintage champagne. At San Domenico, dinner began - as it often did - with a complimentary cup of warming borlotti bean andbarley soup. White truffles, shaved at the table, seemed appropriate for Odette Fada's signature ouvo in raviolo - one big, soft pillow of a raviolo filled with ricotta, spinach and a runny egg yolk, and usually finished with truffle butter in any case.
More shavings over an autumnal saddle of venison with chestnyut purée. Mango sorbet and fresh fruit refreshed the palate before the usual pannacotta dessert, but this time with raspberry syrup rather than balsamico. Nice. Some big ol' Tuscan to drink, although my diary contains no details.
For Sunday lunch, I made lamb with mint sauce and opened a 1997 Chateau Greysac. More home cooking the following evenings: breast of veal wrapped in fresh tarragon before cooking, a blanquette de veau, Robiola, Roaring Forties blue; not all at the same meal.
The week finished with a flourish: a bar lunch at Grand Central Oyster Bar. A bunch of oysters, naturally enough, then the clam pan roast. Creamy.
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