[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 13, 2011]
I originally intended to write a lengthy review of Alex Stupak's village Mexican, but as you'll see it's a little difficult to do so based on my experience there. Also, I just don't think it's ready
Unphotographable!
"What can you possibly mean, Wilfrid?" I hear you cry. Has not Sam Sifton spoken already, ex cathedra, and bestowed a star. Adam Platt too. Well, yes...
Take a look at Platt's review. When he published his conclusions, only last month, he insisted that Empellón was not a taco joint. He discussed a series of entrées - fish, rice with shrimp - all gone now. To return? Who knows. Unless you are in a well-heeled party and inclined to order a $200 steak of sixty bucks worth of shrimp for two, Empellón absolutely is a taco joint again. Yes, there are appetizers, but if you are eating dinner - not just snacking with your fancy tequila drink - tacos are the only way to go.
I admit I wasn't quite prepared for this. I'd been reading about dishes like turbot with mustard greens and masa dumplings with sweetbreads, so I found myself turning the menu over and over until accepting that they were gone. Since I was ready for dinner, but not for 16oz of kobe, I ordered two taco "appetizer" plates: that gets you two pairs of tacos (each taco is around $6/$7 unless you climb the ladder to lobster).
Although the chicharrones looked dramatic - huge furls of white crispiness, a bit like giant prawn crackers - I liked the sound of peeky-toe crab with fava beans, so requested that to start. And I sat over my cocktail, the Empelloma (reposado, grapefruit juice, smoked salt). Then I sat over a glass of red wine. I sat and I sat. Chips aren't complimentary, so I just sat and drank.
I also tested my camera once I asked for and got a candle. But this is a deeply, richly dark restaurant and I had to give up. A packed restaurant too, middle of a Sunday evening. The bar slammed with happy tequila drinkers, tables crowded with parties sharing taco plates.
In brief - although it wasn't brief at the time - I learned that my appetizer had "sold out" almost an hour after I'd ordered it, but here was some octopus instead. When, I wondered, did it sell out? I didn't want the octopus, didn't really want anything at this stage, but the manager, Rose Thompson, arrived and reduced my blood pressure with her directness: "It's ridiculous, isn't it?"
I could only laugh. Yes, yes it is. And this is why this isn't really a review, because clearly the tables around me were being fed and having a fine time. My luck ran out. The last time my meal just didn't arrive at all was shortly after the opening of Veritas. I was comped the meal that night, and again at Empellón. So maybe this should be tagged as "free stuff." But I might as well tell you about it.
Octopus, sliced into little discs and served in a bowl with the sweet contrast of parsnip and a spiky two-chili sauce. Nice. Very hard to analyze in the dark.
I tried what I identified as a fairly classic taco, the fish tempura and cabbage. Sounded like a bajo fish taco to me - and it was a good one, laced - chef Stupak likes to drizzle his sauces at cute angles - with a lime mayo.
The side I asked for was the jaw-dropping, knockout surprise of the evening. Smoked plantains. t looks like nothing - platanos reduced to a brownish mush. But the smoky sweetness is truly deep and makes you want to say pretentious things about completely rethinking what plantains are for. Amazing. They could sell this stuff by the pint.
My other taco choice sounded more inventive: sweetbread tacos with maitake mushrooms and tlatonile. I needed that one explained - a sort of sesame and chili paste. These were really good, the reason being that the kitchen makes good sweetbreads. Wrapped in a tortilla or unwrapped, these were top glands. The downside to the experience was just that by the time I was on my fourth taco, the world seemed a flat, samey sort of place.
Maybe if you're in a group of six and every taco is different and the margaritas are flowing. It's a restaurant I just don't quite get; and I know I'm not the only one. Note, I came with no prejudices about what chef Stupak ought to have been doing to follow up his success with avant garde desserts at WD-50. I just wasn't convinced that he had yet figured out what he is doing. But hey, people seem to like it.
My first thought for dessert was the tres leches cake, sweet and creamy. Rose's recommendation, which I'd never have chosen - a passionfruit tart surrounded by cute globes of meringue - was much superior, sharp and refreshing.
I'd like to go back. I'd like to have a quieter meal chosen from a more varied menu and with the lights on too. I bet this place will have changed significantly six months from now, I hope for the better.
In the meantime, thanks to Rose for rescuing my evening. Here's the Website.
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