[Free stuff by Wilfrid: March 14, 2011]
Even a very last minute invitation to meet the president of Maison Ruinart and sip some of his bubbly could hardly be refused. I accepted almost without glancing at the location.
Turned out to be at David Burke's latest place at the James Hotel, SoHo. And so, a good tour of the David burke's Kitchen menu too.
Not prepared though, to find I was among only a dozen food writers seated around one, splendidly decorated table in the Kitchen's event space. "Face time," as we like to call it, with Ruinart's Jean-Marc Gallot was plentiful, and a droll character he turned out to be; enthusiastic and amusing throughout the dinner, despite jet lag. I praised "R de Ruinart" as one of my favorite champagnes, but the purpose of the evening was to celebrate the house's "Blanc des Blancs," a 100% chardonnay blend.
As for the sensory experience, there was a box of test tubes at each place setting.
We had to sing for our supper. Or more specifically, we had to work our way through the numbered test tubes, checking off the aromas on a sheet provided. The didactic purpose was to draw attention to the presence of those aromas in the champagne's bouquet. Some struggled with the test; as for myself, modesty forbids, although I did have trouble distinguishing white from pink pepper, and the sweetness of citron eluded me at first. It was an instructive exercise: I would not have looked for cardamom in the bouquet, but after the sniffing I tried, and found it (or convinced myself I had, anyway).
The menu at the Kitchen is typically playful: ants on a log (snails on a marrow bone), lamb cross bone, that sort of thing. I enjoyed one of the "jars" offered - layers of tomato and eggplant purée and creamy ricotta, cool and spreadable on toast. One dish from the regular menu, the pretzel crab cake, looked like fun and was also really good to eat.
I had visions of curly pretzels, or perhaps just a pretzel-flavored breading, but no. The pretzels are sticks, arranged around the crab meat making it look like a bundle of logs. A spiky tomato-orange marmalade on top and a "white beer" foam on the side. You have to smash it open to eat it; honest.
The "Blanc des Blancs" was offered through the meal, so no heavy meat course. John Dory (not on the regular menu I've seen) was fresh and delicate. I liked the clams, the roast cauliflower, but couldn't find the guanciale alleged to be present.
I've eaten at several of David Burke's restaurants, with mixed results, by far the best experience so far being at the remote location in New Jersey, David Burke's Fromagerie. I have never ordered the signature lollipop tree which is a fixture on his menus - simply because I thought it would be too sweet for me. I was right; but it's a striking composition, and I was surrounded by people enjying it. Then the surprise of the evening.
Is that a phantasm? No, it's the chef himself, with Jean-Marc, refusing to stay still for the camera. His appearance was a surprise at the end of the evening, and I am sure we benefited from his supervision of the meal.
Thanks to Ruinart, of course, for the invitation. The oldest of the great champagne houses, it's not a household name in the States, and events like this are intended to raise its profile in a focused way. But I don't know what I can say about the champagne. It's very good. Drink some.
Roz, we had a very good dinner at Fromagerie, I think back in October or November. Still upscale (footstools for handbags!), but in addition to the regular menu they were making some nice inhouse charcuterie and using the back garden to roast suckling pigs. The menu is not a typical Burke menu, apart from the lollipop tree of course!
Posted by: Wilfrid | March 18, 2011 at 10:46 AM
Hi Wilfrid,
That Pretzel Crusted Crab dish is also on the menu at Fishtail. We had it when we were there last year. Like you, I expected it would be pretzel bread crumbs or some such. I agree it was quite tasty.
I was surprised to read that you've been to D.B.'s Fromagerie and am curious as to how that happened. You see, our house is in the general vicinity. Opened about 40 years ago as just Fromagerie, it was an upscale French restaurant. Actually, it was the only restaurant of that ilk in the area until ten years ago when Restaurant Nicholas opened in Middletown. It serves contemporary American cuisine with French influences and is considered one of the best restaurants in NJ.
Fromagerie was owned by two brothers, and when they decided to retire a few years ago, Burke -- who grew up in the area -- bought it and changed the cuisine to his own style. We've had dinner there once since he took it over, and I have to say I was rather disappointed. While it's considered Nicholas' competition, imo, it's not anywhere near as excellent. A shame because its setting is really charming.
Posted by: Roz | March 17, 2011 at 12:08 PM