A First Look At Saro Bistro

[Free stuff by Wilfrid:  March 21, 2011]

Long time readers will know this blog has a soft spot for Tides, the vanished seafood restaurant on Suffolk Street.  An interview with the owners was the first piece published here - nearly four years ago (wow).

The latest project in that small space, Saro Bistro, and I am pleased to report a fresh look, a fresh start, and a menu worthy of investigation.

I should insert a qualification here.  Although I am happy to eat, photograph and report on food I consume as a result of an invitation to a restaurant, I avoid formally reviewing it.  A special occasion, catered for expected guests, may not resemble the experience of a regular diner stepping in off the street.  It would serve no interest in this case, however - and least of all yours, gentle reader - to withhold a recommendation that you go try the place.

Eran Elhalal can cook.

But before we even get to that, let's acknowledge that his wife Jackie can decorate.  Many of you, I know, recall Tides well, and the space has been thoroughly transformed (a good thing, in fact, for those of us who would otherwise sit there missing Tides).  The famous wooden stalactite ceiling - gone; the open kitchen too, and the restroom with the awkward sliding door replaced by a small, cozy bar (yes, there's a restroom in the back instead). 

More than this, Jackie did a heck of a job switching the atmosphere from sleek/modern to warm/Mitteleuropean.  This involved a whole one-woman show of carving and carpenting, and the installation of charming knicks-knacks; most obviously, it required handprinting the wall pattern which gives the mood of coddling flock wallpaper without... well, without the flock.

The space is pleasing, and actually looks much bigger now the ceiling isn't artificially lowered by Tides' wooden spikes.  Still no more than about sixteen covers though.  And no cat swinging allowed.

Eran's family is (partly, at least) Croatian.  He began cooking in Israel and as a C.I.A. graduate passed through some mainstream New York kitchens, while scheming his own place - what I suppose we might call pan-Balkan - bringing a light touch to dishes inspired by his grandmother (that would be Saro, of course).  This occasion, organized by the exclusive, but very cordial, [Exploration] Dining group, provided a tasting tour through much of the regular menu.

Escarole Salad

The highlights of a shareable appetizer plate were knock-out smoked loin in thin slices and smoky eggplant caviar.  These were flanked by pickled peppers, Spanish ham, some good sausages and cheese.  The rustic peasant bread was, I thought, better than the corn bread. 

The burratina was a refreshing plate of fresh mozzarella stuffed with ricotta and served over heirloom tomatoes.  With the basil garnish, it might have been an Italian appetizer.  The Saro twist was the incorporation of more of that good smoked meat.

Although most dishes have a traditional base, I was wondering how much crab is eaten in Yugoslavia.  The crab cake which followed the burratina, as Eran admitted, was not from his grandmother's repertoire.

Spiky fresh escarole salad, served like many of the courses on quaintly vintage tableware, brought the lighter part of the this long dinner to a close. 

Now that looks like Balkan food, doesn't it.  Hearty cevapcici (čevapčiči, if you insist), those chubby, naked, garlicky sausages are done as well here as at any ofinexpensive Serbian/Croatian grills around the boros.  They were tasty - even better was the pasta, the kind of dish you might struggle to find elsewhere.  It's made inhouse, and tasted like it, tossed with squash, collard greens, several different  mushrooms and plenty of cream.  It sounds simple, but it was very well done; the dish of the evening.

Lamb shoulder was almost a step too far at this point, and I simply backed away from the donuts which followed (donuts and chocolate cake are the primary desserts here).

With a selection of Balkan wines introduced by Dalibor Kostan of Vinum USA, including a light, minerally Sankt Anna Riesling and Katunar Anton, a juicy Croatian Syrah, with the lamb, this was a belt-stretching event and very enjoyable.  Not an official review then, but clearly a place to think about - and I have to go back for the savory pies.

Here's the website.