[Pigging by Wilfrid: May 26, 2008]
One of those holidays when I like to throw all the windows open and pretend I'm grilling.
And that slab of ribs came out very nicely. The recipe published by Mark Bittman last week in the Times, but somewhat adapted. It's a way of twice-cooking your ribs; braised first for tenderness, then finished under a broiler.
Like Bittman I used a dark beer as the braising liquid - Guinness - but I changed the flavor profile. Hold the cinnamon - please! I did use all spice, ginger, and plenty of salt, and I stirred some molasses into the beer for sweetness.
I skipped the initial searing - the ribs were going to end up dark brown anyway.
Instead of two hours at 300, I gave them three at 250; drained the sauce and inserted a rack into the pan under the slab. This meant the ribs were close to the flames when I put the pan under the broiler. Really let it sizzle and crackle, and - per.Bittman - the slab came out crispy as well as tender.
Appetizers included shrimp sourced on Grand Street, dry-fried with some kosher salt. And Despana chorizo char-grilled. I might just throw some liquor on the leftover chorizo later, set fire to it and see what happens.
Happy rest of holiday, and be careful with those tongs. Back to the restaurant reviews next Monday.
