at the sign of The Pink Pig

Pour Deux: Regate(-touille) et Côte d'Or (Charolais)

[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 27, 2007]

Pour deux, or, literally "twofer".  Ah well, it's good enough for Frankula.  Two recent French regional entrants in the downtown stakes - Regate, with a faint air of La Rochelle about it, and Côte d'Or, explicitly Burgundian.

Stop press: According to Eater, the name of the latter has just reverted to Charolais. Apparently they may hoist some Charolais beef onto the menu. (Eater news story.)

'Cue Notes: Georgia and Smoke Joint

[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 27, 2007]

Tired of New York and the Times listing the five Manhattan BBQ joints knows?  (Blue Smoke, RUB, Daisy May's, Dinosaur, Hill Country - okay, enough).  At least I take you a little further afield.

If it's summer, then it's BBQ time...well, almost every day. Georgia on Orchard did finally open, some days after the New York and Time Out announcements.  Give them a chance.

Eat To The Beats: Part One Of A Greenwich Village Walk

[New York Peasant by Wilfrid: July 27, 2007]

Armed with a copy of Bill Morgan's 1997 The Beat Generation in New York, I spent two warm days walking the backstreets of Greenwich Village, chasing ghosts.   Oh, I got a bite to eat too, but not at Chumley's.

This is the first part of attendant thoughts and opinions.

Ten Years Ago: An Ancient Greek

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: July 27, 2007]

"Fings ain't wot they used t'be," mused Frank Norman, the would-be Damon Runyon of Soho.  Mr Norman, whose inimitable approach to spelling was lost to this world by his untimely death in 1980, could aptly address this epigram to the Soho of 2007.  Soho, London, that is.  But his temper might be consoled by an encounter with an ancient Greek.

The Ranger: BBQ in Texan Heights

[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 20, 2007]

An outpost of smoky joy, beyond the kebab carts and roti shops.  Get off of your horse and drink your Coors.  And pass the napkins.

Dish of 2007 (so far): L'Atelier du Joel Robuchon

[Pigging by Wilfrid:  July 20, 2007]

So you can't wait and take the dishes in the order they are served.  Here it is:

(Crispy tête de veau)

Go and eat it right away, because nobody in the city except you and me (baby) is going to understand the transcendent glory of that crisp, hot, fragrant gelatine.

Ten Years Ago: London/NYC/London

[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: July 20, 2007]

As I was saying, back from Rome to old Camden Town for an evening with Debbie Harry.  Or maybe she had already attained Deborah status; anyway, the gooseberries were the Jazz Passengers, and indeed the rest of the audience, at the Jazz Café. 

Deadbeat July: Keeping up Appearances

You know, I wouldn't mind the heat and humidity and tornadoes and random explosions if we were truly in the tropics.  There one can sport three day's stubble, rub nervous sweat from one's brow with a soiled bandana, and strap on a Sam Browne at the first sign of trouble.

[Scroll down past the rag trade stuff for Stephen Lang in Beyond Glory.]

Gordon Ramsay Amazes

  [Pigging by Wilfrid: July 13, 2007]

This am a mug's game.  Bring good news, they shoot the messenger.  And will you look at the date?

If I tell you where to find some of the best, Michelin-starred level cooking (and ingredients) in this city, at around twelve bucks a plate...

Craft Works; Or, His Close Friends Get To Call Him TC!

[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 13, 2007]

I could write a book about my love-irritation relationship with Tom Colicchio's Craft stable.  The epochal Australian lobster tail at Craft.  The reluctance with which staff swept detritus from under the table at Craftbar.  The regular Saturday lunches at the original 'wichcraft.  The terrible cardboard steak at Craftsteak (before TC fiddled with the settings).  The tireless theorising by online foodies about how to get the best out of the flagship, when a restaurant in that price range should be easy to enjoy.

But repeated visits assure that the food coming from the kitchen of Craft itself, under executive chef Damon Wise, has never been more enjoyable.