[Pink Pig Time Machine by Wilfrid: May 2, 2016]
The circles of New York dining turn slowly. As I read about a new opening on the Upper East Side, Grunauer Bistro (Austrian), I think how rare it is to hear about somewhere new and enticing in that neighborhood. Can it really be ten years ago everyone was getting excited about Café d'Alsace?
Yes indeed, and not so much because it was a major opening as because--at last there's somewhere to go around here (Flex Mussels had a similar effect).
I also hit a couple of places on the regular rotation: Tides for the lobster roll with thyme and lemon zest (Spring was coming), and the Ukrainian restaurant for jellied pig's feet and a hearty kasha with beef chunks (yes, "chunks" is said on the menu; Spring wasn't quite here yet). Another place where I was getting to be a regular was Savoy, just really conveniently located near the old SoHo location of Poet's House. I dropped by for a salad of guanciale followed by salt-baked duck.
Aaron Sanchez was in the kitchen at Centrico, the lively Myriad Restaurant Group property which had opened the previous year, and I'd been tipped off that there was kid on the menu (okay, "young goat" as it's curiously referred to in the States. Braised and delicious, preceded by tongue tacos and some grilled sweetbreads, and the place's signature spicy Jalapiña cocktail.
Indoors? Roast pork blade with mashed yams. Uptown? To Liberato in Washington Heights after an animated Dominican political meeting: braised beef, tostones.