[Pigging by Wilfrid: March 31, 2014]
As it happens, my meals at All'onda straddled Pete Wells' review in the Times. I won't be reading Well's review until I've finished writing this, but I couldn't miss the cute headline.
But to the extent it leads you to expect Venetian-Japanese fusion, misleading. All'onda has Asian accents here and there, but it's heart lies in neat, restrained, Northern Italian cooking. And rightly or wrongly, I use "Northern" as a tag to indicate that red sauce is not the deal here.