[Pigging by Wilfrid: February 1, 2010]
I am one of those unfortunate souls who never quite fully responds to the joy of pizza. I almost envy those who rapturously compare the merits of pies and slices and worship those who make them.
I've been lucky enough to eat pizza in Naples and Rome, and have the fondest memories of Neapolitan slices, blistered and chewy, with a flavor all their own. Nevertheless I rarely eat the stuff here, except at childrens' parties - and it's been a long time since I visited Di Fara - and so the whole new pizza movement has largely passed me by.
I did drop by Veloce Pizzeria last summer, and was startled to be served a pie with a crust of foccaccia - a sort of pizza sponge. The East Village branch of Motorino is equally convenient to me, so I finally succumbed and tried a couple of their wheels.
One of the special pies the night I visited was described as a white pie topped with prosciutto - a description which puzzled me a little, as I assumed a pie stopped being white as soon you started laying toppings on it (oh, I suppose it's the absence of tomato sauce). It was good enough though, my reservation being that the prosciutto fell off very easily, or came away in large pieces when you attempted to bite it. You had to keep picking bits up and replacing them.
I had planned to try something else from the menu, and had heard good things about the octopus appetizer, but I gave in to the temptation of a second pie instead. I would describe the dimensions of the pies here as medium large. They arrive just about cut into four slices: one pie for two would make a snack, but you can eat a whole pie yourself if you're hungry.
It seemed fair to try the basic margherita, well priced at $14 (the marinara is only $9). With mozzarella di bufala and plenty of fresh basil, this was a good example of the genre. But it's all about the crust, of course, and Motorino seemed to handle this about as well as anywhere: blistered in the Neapolitan style, slightly chewy, capable of holding the topping with a tendency to droop towards the center.
A spark was missing, though. I do not hold myself out as a pizza expert, but I am wondering if the crust could use a little more seasoning. These were pleasant too eat, but somehow one dimensional. I'd go here again as soon as any other pizza joint in the neighborhood, and if that seems like faint praise I guess that's what it is.
They have a website here.
