[Pigging by Wilfrid: November 2, 2009]
Tuck beside the ever-packed Caracas arepa bar on East 7th, Luke's is exceptionally convenient for me. I avoid the stools and narrow counters by just picking up my order and walking it home across the park.
The order does not have to include a lobster roll, although Luke's roll inevitably provokes controversy. People are suspicious of a bargain.
And rightly so. I was partly kidding when I posted a picture of the roll next to a standard home remote control so people could compare the sizes.
Of course the roll is not as big as what you might call the New York standard lobster roll, as served by Pearl and Ed's and Ditch Plains as well as the now closed Tides and Black Pearl. There is less bun, less filler (celery, tarragon, mayo, whatever), and possibly less lobster. Possibly. But the fact remains that it's half the price of those other rolls, but certainly much more than half the size.
Since the lobster - knuckle meat only - is good enough, what could be the problem? Well, the complaints come thick and fast. It could be a little bit bigger, there's not enough bread for the lobster, there's not enough mayo, the lobster meat is too cold, and so on. For myself, I can rise aloof from such petty concerns. By the time I have walked my roll home, the meat is no longer chilled. I can add - and have - mayo, seasoning, even hot sauce to taste. I am fine with the bun - it holds the lobster, that's its job.
But if you still have a problem, just forget the lobster, because I think the crab and shrimp rolls are terrific.
That roll bursting with juicy shrimp costs $7. The crab roll, fresh and rich, $9. That's $15 the pair, and it's a fine supper. With or without a packet of Miss Vickie's Kettle Chips.
A well kept secret, for the most part, is that crab is often tastier than lobster. This roll underscores that point and it needs to be touted - ahead of certain smashed, overcooked burgers - as one of the best new sandwiches in town.
