[Pigging by Wilfrid: October 12, 2009]
Time, I thought, to stop by Hearth and see what's doing. I climbed up to the kitchen counter, and found some nice new things on the menu - new to me, anyway.
I'd already eaten a pork terrine, because charcuterie at Hearth is always worth ordering. But I couldn't resist a second appetizer. Frogs' legs play a role in some dinky dishes around town, notably as an accompaniment to Jean-Georges' young garlic soup. The Hearth approach is refreshingly hearty: fried and served hot with zucchini, onion and garlic.
Time for an apology to the reader. As my order of Normandy duck arrived, I fell into conversation and entirely forgot to photograph it. Words will have to do: it's a beautifully composed dish. Chunks of duck breast are roasted medium rare, the skin crisp and golden. The leg is braised and garnished with Concord grapes, a great flavor combination. Turnips too, the classic accompaniment to a French duck. This is worth seeking out.
I might mention that the kitchen was experimenting with a liver terrine from the same bird; if it arrives on the menu, get it. Always good to be back here, and I was sorry I couldn't finish the complimentary gnocchi. The downside of eating two appetizers, I suppose.
