[Pigging by Wilfrid: August 11, 2008]
When the city scorches, thoughts turn briefly away from pork belly and blood sausage. I recently ate very enjoyable seafood dinners at quite contrasting restaurants - 15 East, the Japanese partner of Tocqueville, on the same block east of Union Square and the Kyclades Taverna on Ditmars Boulevard in Astoria.
Japanese and Greek, and they both had a great way with octopus. At Kyclades, a mountainous appetizer portion was grilled, glistening brown. At 15 East, delicates slices were shaved from poached tentacles.
In each case, the octopus had been thoroughly pre-tenderized, whether by being beaten in a kind of washing-machine, or - as 15 East boasted - relentlessly massaged into submission. At 15 East, the slices were ringed with delicate, natural jelly. At Kyclades the meat had a smoky char. Great eating.
15 East
Ever since it opened, with a sushi bar commaned by Masato Shimizu, formerly of Jewel Bako, 15 East has been one of the two obvious choices for high quality sushi at non-cosmic prices in Manhattan. It ranks close to Sushi Yasuda, which perhaps shades it for range and variety of fish. Masa and Kuruma Zushi, where omakase prices easily reach $400 a head, are in kind of a different category.
I put myself entirely in the chefs' hands, and 15 East lived up to my memory. After some palate cleansers, and the octopus, a selection of sashimi was served as a platter. A perfect little Kumamoto oysters had been enriched, I think with scallion. Spanish mackerel was appropriately fishy.
As an interlude, I really liked a large but light helping of the housemade tofu, surpassingly creamy, with a warm miso broth on the side, and a range of condiments: scallions, bonito flakes, grated ginger.
The main event was a procession of sushi including - and this is always a major factor of interest - some unfamiliar items. Yellofin is a regular on sushi menus, but I was offered a scarce cut, the yellowfin belly - rich, although not as fatty as otoro. Gizzard-chad was strongly flavored - it had been through a vinegary marinade. In a goblet, contrasting scoops of Japanese and Californian sea urchin were offered: the former greyish, briney, subtle; the latter orange, fruity, approachable.
From the moment I sat down, I had my eye on some grey-purple rectangles in the case in front of me, which looked kind of familiar. I had to insist on trying it (one chef thought it too chewy). Ah yes, the mantis shrimp - or shako - an assertively flavored, stringy little beast which I remember buying speculatively in Chinatown and grilling. Brushed with a little sauce, I liked it on sushi rice, and ordered another piece.
Calling a halt as I reached capacity, I was amused and pleased to discover that the price remains practically in long-step with Yasuda. All you could realistically eat for about $120.
Kyclades
On a busy block of Ditmars Boulevard in a neighborhood known for Greek seafood restaurants, the Kyclades Taverna could pass for just another overcrowded, inexpensive fish shack with a line to get in. In fact, there's a good reason for the line; Kyclades is a little bit special. Its high Zagat rating and Michelin mention reflect the fact that it serves product of high quality for its price point, simply but accurately prepared.
It also has some outdoor dining space, some of it set slightly back, at least, from the high street. I waited about half an hour with friends for one of these tables (this was around 7pm; the wait seems distinctly shorter later in the evening - this isn't downtown).
Kyclades is, in fact, even cheaper than it looks, once you understand how to order. Appetizers and entrées are served family style, and are certainly not individual portions. Four people shared the excellent octopus, the equally good grilled squid, a large Greek salad, and - straying back to meat - fat, split hearty sausages; then ordered more octopus, and had really at that point over-ordered.
We struggled to finish two shared entrees. Some fresh fish are listed at market price and sold whole. We settled for an order of grilled swordfish, enough for several hungry people, at $19.50, and a plate of whole, fried red mullet (six of them?) at $13.95. With some undistinguished soft, lemony potatoes (get them fried instead) and a vegetable, we had by now ordered rather too much food. The swordfish was as good as I can remember eating.
I think the best way to summarize Kyclade's distinction is that to get better fish, you need to go somewhere they are being pulled out of the sea, or you need to pay dizzyingly high prices. It is much better than it should be. Service is friendly but no-nonsense, and if Greek wine puzzles you, drink beer.
Somehow or other, complimentary desserts - flans of high sweetness - were somehow tackled. I will go again, making sure to be hungry (and also get some publishable pictures - technical hitch).
All about Kyclades here. All things 15 East here.
