[Pigging by Wilfrid: July 29, 2014]
Discreet élan is, of course, an oxymoron. Élan is fireworks and fanfares. It's roast swan, stuffed with a goose. It's ten-foot photographs of Chuck Close's face, filling a wall in a narrow corridor behind a bar.
It's not--decidedly not--David Waltuck's cooking or Karen Waltuck's service. Once you're past big Chuck, this restaurant might be called Discrète. But is that a bad thing?